"The good news is we are fifteen minutes early!", shouts the KLM aeroplane captain as we begin our descent into Heathrow. "The bad news is, we cannot land for another forty-five minutes".
"For
fuck's sake", says my neighbour. He is an idiot in a cheap suit who has eaten all of his stupid lunch in a box and sucked up two small bottles of wine. His other main hobby has been being sarcastic with the air steward lady who has been - as they always are on KLM - like a perfect robotlady in shoes you could run for a bus in.
He slams shut his stupid management book (which is not as good
as the one I will write), and catches my eye. "Fucking typical, isn't it? It all works until you get to fucking
Britain".
As swearing is the occupation of Princes and Kings, I find his chit-chat entertaining, but I am too tired to argue, or even say any words to him; these are strange times, and my mind and heart are elsewhere. There is also no point in arguing, because I know he is right.
Going Through CustomsFour desks, six hundred people: an hour and a half to get off a plane and into a cab.
Getting a CabHeathrow to Barnes. £35. His is moving to New Zealand. He cannot stand Britain another minute.
Him: What do you think of all the blacks ?
Me: What, the All Blacks? Dunno. I don't much about rugby.
Him: No, all the blacks.
Buying A Residents' Parking PermitIt costs me £60 to park outside my flat (which is mine) for six months, and takes two hours to pay for the bit of paper that says it is OK for me to park outside my flat (which is mine), on a road in a borough in which I pay about £70 a month in council tax. If I do not buy it, my car will be removed and sent to Peckham, which is on the Moon.
There is a new place to go to get the bits of paper though! It is called "Brixton Customer Centre". It is all very New Labour 2001, and the computers don't work. There are three times as many people working there as there are 'customers', except they are not really working. One of them is trying on sunglasses.
On the walls, there are photographs of people smiling outside their council houses or lying in the grass outside the London Eye. They do not look like me or anyone I have ever seen in Lambeth.
Buying Stuff In M&SI am stuck at the check-out for twenty minutes because an insufferable woman has her "party food" order confused! Twelve "smoked salmon bites" cost exactly the same as six filo prawn parcels and six mini-hamburgers, apparently, but only if you say the prices out loud to the people on the till like they are retarded.
I wish she could afford to live in Battersea.
Getting The Bus£2? For bus that moves in the same borough, let alone the same city? (That is about $4 in the America or the Canadia, or about 3 Euros, which will get you from Amsterdam to the moon and back.)
People Talking On Their Mobile Telephones Very LoudlyIf you live a country where you do not understand the language (e.g. the Netherlands) or have to tune in to understand it (e.g. France or Quebec), life is good. When you are in a country where you hear everything whether you want to or not, it is very bad and makes you want to die.
MoneyEVERYTHING is expensive. There is nothing in Britain that is cheaper than it is in another country, apart from when you go to hospital, where you can get free blood poisoning. I have really looked today for something that is cheap but there is nothing at all that is cheaper than Amsterdam or France or Canada, apart from
The Guardian, and I'm not sure that even that's worth it anymore.
MothballsTen shops. No mothballs. I am not entirely sure that five out of the ten shops even knew what mothballs were.
Going To The DoctorI am not even ill, but I need to have some things looked at the doctor, who is mad. But somehow, despite being at the doctor at the right time, I have missed my appointment. This is worrying and depressing, all at once.
Whilst all this goes on, I am spending entire days in my plush Brixton apartment clearing things out. A friend (and her many boxes) is living here, but she cannot empty her boxes until I empty my cupboards and drawers and cellar. But emptying is difficult when negotiating boxes, and the cat - who is unfortunately not yet dead - keeps sitting on the things I am clearing out. I am tired and cross and do not want to be here, even though I know it will all be worth it in the end.
But what is this? An 'instant message' on Skype! It is my (English) friend Simon, who lives in Vancouver. That is in Canadia, which is the place where I am going three weeks to live for three months (and then possibly up to and including the rest of my life).
Me: Do you miss England ever?
Simon: Never. Ever. And you can get Radio 4 on your computer. What else do you need?
I feel unaccountably cheerful now, and will soon be telephoning British Airways to see if can change my flight. I see no reason why I should not leave the country tomorrow.