
When I lived in England and North Americans (i.e. Americans from the U.S.A. AND Canadians) chatted about 'pancakes', the only thing I could see in front of my eyes were 3ft high piles of what looked like
Scotch pancakes (but bigger), lurching skywards in front of gigantic people in check shirts holding a gigantic pot of maple-flavoured syrup in one hand and a gigantic fork in the other. Certain head-pictures also involved bacon sticking out of the pile and endless cups of burnt pisswater masquerading as coffee, served either black or with cream, poured into a too-thick china mug whilst
John Cougar Mellencamp (American version) or
early Bryan Adams (English Canada) or
Roch Voisine* (French Canada) played in the background.
Then I moved to Canada and still the pancakes kept coming. Canadians would talk about them a lot like they were really great, and say things like "I would like a big pile of pancakes right now!"; I would go out for "brunch" with Canadians (including my husband) and they would eat them and say things like, Oh man that's awesome, wow, just what I needed. I did not understand, because when I tried these pancakes of which they spoke they were heavy and tiring, and after one I wanted a little lie down and a cold piece of toast and Marmite.
But now I am applying for my permanent residency, and in September I will start to apply for Canadian citizenship (after which I will be British AND Canadian). I have got used to many North American/Canadian cooking things so far, including the notion of frosting (at its best, just whipped ganache - do NOT get me started; it is quite delicious) and the extraordinary simplicity of cooking with cup and spoon measures. At the beginning I was very sneery about this and thought it was over-simple and whatnot, but in fact is it just, well, easier, and I find baking 100 times more straightforward with cups and spoons than I do with scales. (Incidentally does anyone know where cup measures came from? Was it just Americans realising that cocking about with scales was unnecessarily complicated?)
But I digress: the point is that if I am going to live here for a while, be married to a Canadian, spend time with Canadians (including at breakfast and/or brunch), it is a good idea to get used to some of their food things (although I draw the line at
Kraft dinner). A secret and private project recently has therefore been to get very good at (American) pancakes. (For Canadian readers: if you ask for a pancake in England you will get a crêpe.)
So far I have been bloody rubbish at it. Pan too hot, strange recipes, forgetting am not making English pancakes, etc etc. But I have persevered and can now tell you that I have found what I think is a truly excellent recipe: authentic (i.e., American), foolproof, and best of all not awful and heavy. It is from
Cook's Illustrated - which is I suppose a posher version of the Good Housekeeping Institute but for cooking stuff only - in that they test recipes to destruction. It is absolutely brilliant for all those things that I think of as 'American' food (cupcakes, cookies, BBQ stuff, blah blah) and worth every penny of the $34-odd subscription I pay for the online archive. Anyway that huge big-up allows me to not feel guilty about copying their recipe for pancakes, which I reproduce word-for-word here (and the lemon thing deffo works and is ace):
Cook's Illustrated Light and Fluffy Pancakes
This batter serves four perfectly for a light weekday breakfast. You may want to double the recipe for weekend pancake making, when appetites are larger. If you happen to be using salted butter or buttermilk, you may want to cut back a bit on the salt. If you don’t have any buttermilk, mix three-quarters cup of room temperature milk with one tablespoon of lemon juice and let it stand for five minutes. Substitute this “clabbered milk” for the three-quarters cup of buttermilk and one-quarter cup of milk in this recipe. Since this milk mixture is not as thick as buttermilk, the batter and resulting pancakes will not be as thick.
Ingredients
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon table salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup milk (plus an extra tablespoon or so if batter is too thick)
1 large egg , separated
2 tablespoons unsalted butter , melted
vegetable oil (for brushing griddle)
Instructions
1. Mix dry ingredients in medium bowl. Pour buttermilk and milk into 2-cup Pyrex measuring cup. Whisk in egg white; mix yolk with melted butter, then stir into milk mixture. Dump wet ingredients into dry ingredients all at once; whisk until just mixed.
2. Meanwhile, heat griddle or large skillet over strong medium-high heat. Brush griddle generously with oil. When water splashed on surface confidently sizzles, pour batter, about 1/4 cup at a time, onto griddle, making sure not to overcrowd. When pancake bottoms are brown and top surface starts to bubble, 2 to 3 minutes, flip cakes and cook until remaining side has browned, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Re-oil the skillet and repeat for the next batch of pancakes.Pathologist pancake-cooking tips: "Here is what I do. I heat the pan to a medium heat, like 5, with the butter or oil and then wipe it out so there is only a little bit left. Then I turn down the heat to 1 or 2 and make the first pancake. It is always a disaster so expect to throw it away, but after that it is always perfect."
I watch him eat pancakes like David Attenborough watching the feeding habits of the
cercopithecinae, and he treats them like he would toast (puts jam, honey, peanut butter, cheese on them) but also does that thing that English people expect North Americans to do, i.e. puts maple syrup on them. Not maple flavoured syrup; real maple syrup - the stuff you make by tapping maple sap and boiling it and boiling it until it is syrup. And here I am going to go off on one again: I hated what I thought was maple syrup, but was in fact maple-flavoured corn syrup. The real stuff is ace and now I know about it a bit more I use it all the time where you might use brown sugar or honey: salad dressings, cakes, on pancakes, with yoghurt, in porridge, etc etc. They use it a lot at Ottolenghi (like in
this recipe, which is fucking amazing and was one of our wedding cakes), which to me is like a Royal Warrant, but from someone who I think is good.
Anyway. That's quite enough of that. I was going to start on chocolate chips, but all this talk of pancakes and syrup has made me remember that I was supposed to be at the gym 3 hours ago, so off I go.
Oh, and if anyone wants some real maple syrup, chosen for you by a genuine French-Canadian, born in the place where 75% of the
world's maple syrup is produced, owner of maple trees and enthusiastic consumer himself, tell me what you would do with it if we sent it to you. If we like your reason, we will send you some.
Pip "and STRETCH one-two-three" pip
NWM
*
"Moi! je le trouve sexy avec sa chemise de bûcheron, car moi-même j'en suis une bûcheronne et moi j'aime Roch Voisine", says one of the comments on YouTube ("Me! I find him sexy in his lumberjack shirt, because I myself am a lady lumberjack and me, I love Roch Voisine").
As I was watching the clip my 'husband', the French-Canadian veterinary research histopathologist, sang along in a comedy style, interspersed with cries of "look at his smug smile!", topped off with a reminder that we once saw Roch Voisine (who is very small) at
Bureau En Gros in Boisbriand buying paperclips.